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Makeup Brushes: An Investment In Beauty!

Makeup Brushes: An Investment In Beauty!

Posted By Kate

Last July, one of our team attended the International Makeup Artist Trade Show (IMATS) held at Vancouver's Convention Centre. I.M.A.T.S. Vancouver, 2014 hits town again soon.

For those who are makeup artists or merely makeup enthusiasts, one might consider the two-day event as a discombobulating array of temptation and talent:

  • attendance by Emmy Award winning makeup artists;
  • industry pros;
  • tutorials and showcases of technique and talent (last year's special effects projects by local students were amazing!);
  • pro cosmetic vendors galore.


The makeup brands featured at the show were of professional, not consumer grade.  However, the busiest vendors were the six BRUSH companies. I.M.A.T.S is sponsored by the Royal and Langnickel brush company, and they were CRAZY busy on both days of the show!

 

The brush vendors were busy for a reason: makeup artists and enthusiasts know that while one does need quality products to deliver beautiful results, one also requires quality tools to achieve those results. (Would you buy a hammer with a loose head, or a chainsaw with a motor like a sewing machine? No.)

 

Quality brushes not only deliver better results, but if cared for properly, will last for much longer than those of a run of the mill, poorly constructed, bargain basement variety. While it seems like a great deal to walk into your local drugstore, and see that their generic, house brand of brushes are on-sale for 40% off ... with regular usage and wear, those "bargain" brushes aren't such a bargain, because one has to replace them sooner than they ought to, spending more money. And, really, when one's buying a powder or blush brush, the bristles shouldn't feel scratchy on the skin, nor bleed black dye every time they're washed!

 

On the opposite hand: just because a department store brand is marked as "professional", and you're buying them in a department store ... doesn't necessarily make them worth the money invested. Sometimes, you're paying for the marketing and prestige name, not necessarily the quality or durability of the brushes!

 

Buyer beware: there are a lot of clever marketing ploys, gimmicks, and hype in the cosmetics industry!

 

Brushes are an investment. You don't have to spend an astronomical amount on ridiculously priced ... $250 powder brushes from Japan, but you ought to know what to look for when purchasing your brushes.

 

As written and originally published by Emmy Award winning makeup artist, Kevin James Bennett, designer of Royal & Langnickel's [R]evolution brush series (which we sell, here at eSkinStore):

 

 

BRUSH CONSTRUCTION 101

THE BRISTLES: These are the brush hairs (natural or synthetic). The bristle tips are called the Toe and the base is called the Heel. The Toe gets its shape one of two ways: the tapered tips of the bristles are gathered and arranged to create a shape (best quality), or the gathered tips are cut/sheared to create the shape. Once the bristles have been given their desired shape, they are tied at the Heel, and the very base of the bristles are dipped in glue to hold them together. Once the glue is set, the bristles are secured (glued) into the ferrule (I'll explain what the the ferrule is in a minute).

brush-assembly

ROAD TEST: Look at the shape of the brush from all angles. Have the bristles been arranged correctly? Do they create a uniform, symmetrical shape? Now gently tug the brush bristles (I said GENTLY). New brushes will often shed a few hairs. If more than a few bristles come loose, they were not glued correctly at their base, and the brush is not well made.


Whether they're natural, synthetic, or blended, the brush bristles should always feel soft and smooth. Certain brushes shapes will feel firmer, but should never feel stiff. Test the brush by running it across the soft skin on the inside of your wrist. If the brush feels stiff or prickly on your skin, it's going to feel uncomfortable on someone's face. Would you want someone rubbing a stiff, scratchy brush on your face or eyes? I didn't think so, so don't buy it.

 

THE FERRULE: This is the metal band that connects the bristles to the handle. Once the bristles have been shaped and set properly, they are glued into the ferrule. When you combine the bristles and ferrule, it becomes what is know as the brush head.

 

ROAD TEST: Hold the ferrule in one hand and the brush handle in the other. The brush head (ferrule and bristle assembly) should not be loose, spin easily, or wobble on the handle. There should be crimp rings at the base of the ferrule, securing it tightly to where the brush handle is inserted. Gluing the ferrule to the handle without crimping compromises the brush durability. The metal used to create the ferrule should be rust-proof (aluminum, brass, chrome, etc.), and not dent or bend easily with finger pressure. The top of the ferrule (where the bristles are inserted) should have a smooth, even edge. If it feels sharp, it was finished cheaply.

 

THE HANDLE: This can be made of any number of materials (wood, metal, acrylic, etc.).

 

ROAD TEST: The handle should feel substantial not too heavy or too light. It should be balanced and comfortable when you hold it in application position.  Avoid gimmicky handles that dont enhance the performance of the brush, or that might be uncomfortable to hold while working. If your brushes have solid hardwood or composite wood handles DO NOT submerge them in water. Wood handles are porous and will absorb water. This will cause the handle to expand (when wet) and contract (when dry). The expanding wood will stretch the ferrule where the handle is inserted, and cause the entire brush head to become loose or possibly fall off.

 

THE BATTLE OF THE BRISTLES

Most people are familiar with natural-hair brushes, which are typically made of sable, squirrel, goat, or a combination of hairs chosen for visual appeal and functionality. High material costs and animal cruelty issues have negatively impacted the natural-hair brush category.

There are quite a few senior artists who can't comprehend not working with natural-hair makeup brushes. They refuse to believe that modern, man-made materials will produce the same results. While I admire their allegiance to tradition, I offer them an invitation to visit the 21st century. Back in the day, animal hair was the only material available for brush making, so it became the standard. Thanks to strides in technology, today's synthetic filaments are specifically designed to enhance makeup brush functionality and performance. Natural-hair bristles are no longer the benchmark of quality, folks. It's time to put away the vinyl records, and get an iPod!


SPECIAL NOTE: If a company tries to tell you they have cruelty-free natural-hair brushes, they're liars. There was one major cosmetic company trying to pass off the ridiculous story that the natural hair used in their brushes was humanely shaved from animals. Seriously ... shaving squirrels? Get my boots, the bullshiz is getting deep!

Revolution-BX30

 

Technology has created synthetic filaments (nylon, taklon, polyester) that offer greater versatility and superior durability they can even be processed to look and feel like the finest natural hair. The BIG difference is, even with constant use (wet or dry) and frequent cleaning, they don't degrade or breakdown as easily as fragile natural hair. There were initial concerns surrounding the smooth exterior surface of synthetic fibers and their performance when using powder makeup products. You see, human and animal hair has a microscopic surface texture called the cuticle, which resembles fish scales. These scales grab and hold onto powder, and then release it when brushed against another surface. Many manufacturers have now developed synthetic fibers that mimic this texture, but it was DuPont laboratories that found a way to actually replicate the cuticle texture, and created Natrafil.  It's a patented polyester filament, with a textured surface that surpasses the pick-up and deposit performance of natural hair, while adding the superior durability of a synthetic. Nartrafil® is the fiber I chose when we created the [R]evolution Brush Collection.

 

duo-fiberAnother trend is blended brushes that mix synthetic and natural hair to augment the best qualities of each. Duo-Fiber has become a popular makeup brush category. These brushes have a signature bi-level construction (usually black and white), created by mixing multiple lengths of bristles (blended or totally synthetic). The purpose of these brushes is to simulate an airbrushed makeup application. In HD media format, this brush type is notorious for creating a streaky liquid/cream foundation application, so Im pretty sure I dont agree with that marketing hype. The brush design is totally viable for other application techniques; they just need to stop marketing it as an airbrush alternative.

 

GETTING INTO SHAPE

Brush head shapes are designed by manufacturers and cosmetic companies to facilitate standard make-up application, or the specific application needs of a new product. While some pretty amazing, specialty shapes have been introduced in the last 5 years, it's important to understand what the basic brush head shapes are:

  • Square or Angled: Bristles are precisely set in a narrow profile, with a sharp angle or flat surface along the top.
  • Chisel: Bristles are set in a narrow profile, with tips gently beveled into an assortment of rounded shapes, to be used for blending or contouring.
  • Pointed: Bristles are set in either a narrow or full round (barrel-shaped) profile. The brush tips are tapered to a precise point for detail work.
  • Round: Bristles are arranged in a full round (barrel-shaped) profile. The brush tips can can be either domed, angled, or flat topped.
  • Kabuki: Similar to the Round, but a larger in a more luxurious, tightly packed brush head. These brushes are available in domed, angled, or flat top styles.

 

You've got some pretty fantastic brushes to choose from here at Eternal


Let us help you find your perfect tools for beautiful results; the craftsmanship and quality that you're investing in. Because you deserve the best, beauties!

Last July, one of our team attended the International Makeup Artist Trade Show (IMATS) held at Vancouver's Convention Centre. I.M.A.T.S. Vancouver, 2014 hits town again soon.

For those who are makeup artists or merely makeup enthusiasts, one might consider the two-day event as a discombobulating array of temptation and talent:

  • attendance by Emmy Award winning makeup artists;
  • industry pros;
  • tutorials and showcases of technique and talent (last year's special effects projects by local students were amazing!);
  • pro cosmetic vendors galore.


The makeup brands featured at the show were of professional, not consumer grade.  However, the busiest vendors were the six BRUSH companies. I.M.A.T.S is sponsored by the Royal and Langnickel brush company, and they were CRAZY busy on both days of the show!

 

The brush vendors were busy for a reason: makeup artists and enthusiasts know that while one does need quality products to deliver beautiful results, one also requires quality tools to achieve those results. (Would you buy a hammer with a loose head, or a chainsaw with a motor like a sewing machine? No.)

 

Quality brushes not only deliver better results, but if cared for properly, will last for much longer than those of a run of the mill, poorly constructed, bargain basement variety. While it seems like a great deal to walk into your local drugstore, and see that their generic, house brand of brushes are on-sale for 40% off ... with regular usage and wear, those "bargain" brushes aren't such a bargain, because one has to replace them sooner than they ought to, spending more money. And, really, when one's buying a powder or blush brush, the bristles shouldn't feel scratchy on the skin, nor bleed black dye every time they're washed!

 

On the opposite hand: just because a department store brand is marked as "professional", and you're buying them in a department store ... doesn't necessarily make them worth the money invested. Sometimes, you're paying for the marketing and prestige name, not necessarily the quality or durability of the brushes!

 

Buyer beware: there are a lot of clever marketing ploys, gimmicks, and hype in the cosmetics industry!

 

Brushes are an investment. You don't have to spend an astronomical amount on ridiculously priced ... $250 powder brushes from Japan, but you ought to know what to look for when purchasing your brushes.

 

As written and originally published by Emmy Award winning makeup artist, Kevin James Bennett, designer of Royal & Langnickel's [R]evolution brush series (which we sell, here at eSkinStore):

 

 

BRUSH CONSTRUCTION 101

THE BRISTLES: These are the brush hairs (natural or synthetic). The bristle tips are called the Toe and the base is called the Heel. The Toe gets its shape one of two ways: the tapered tips of the bristles are gathered and arranged to create a shape (best quality), or the gathered tips are cut/sheared to create the shape. Once the bristles have been given their desired shape, they are tied at the Heel, and the very base of the bristles are dipped in glue to hold them together. Once the glue is set, the bristles are secured (glued) into the ferrule (I'll explain what the the ferrule is in a minute).

brush-assembly

ROAD TEST: Look at the shape of the brush from all angles. Have the bristles been arranged correctly? Do they create a uniform, symmetrical shape? Now gently tug the brush bristles (I said GENTLY). New brushes will often shed a few hairs. If more than a few bristles come loose, they were not glued correctly at their base, and the brush is not well made.


Whether they're natural, synthetic, or blended, the brush bristles should always feel soft and smooth. Certain brushes shapes will feel firmer, but should never feel stiff. Test the brush by running it across the soft skin on the inside of your wrist. If the brush feels stiff or prickly on your skin, it's going to feel uncomfortable on someone's face. Would you want someone rubbing a stiff, scratchy brush on your face or eyes? I didn't think so, so don't buy it.

 

THE FERRULE: This is the metal band that connects the bristles to the handle. Once the bristles have been shaped and set properly, they are glued into the ferrule. When you combine the bristles and ferrule, it becomes what is know as the brush head.

 

ROAD TEST: Hold the ferrule in one hand and the brush handle in the other. The brush head (ferrule and bristle assembly) should not be loose, spin easily, or wobble on the handle. There should be crimp rings at the base of the ferrule, securing it tightly to where the brush handle is inserted. Gluing the ferrule to the handle without crimping compromises the brush durability. The metal used to create the ferrule should be rust-proof (aluminum, brass, chrome, etc.), and not dent or bend easily with finger pressure. The top of the ferrule (where the bristles are inserted) should have a smooth, even edge. If it feels sharp, it was finished cheaply.

 

THE HANDLE: This can be made of any number of materials (wood, metal, acrylic, etc.).

 

ROAD TEST: The handle should feel substantial not too heavy or too light. It should be balanced and comfortable when you hold it in application position.  Avoid gimmicky handles that dont enhance the performance of the brush, or that might be uncomfortable to hold while working. If your brushes have solid hardwood or composite wood handles DO NOT submerge them in water. Wood handles are porous and will absorb water. This will cause the handle to expand (when wet) and contract (when dry). The expanding wood will stretch the ferrule where the handle is inserted, and cause the entire brush head to become loose or possibly fall off.

 

THE BATTLE OF THE BRISTLES

Most people are familiar with natural-hair brushes, which are typically made of sable, squirrel, goat, or a combination of hairs chosen for visual appeal and functionality. High material costs and animal cruelty issues have negatively impacted the natural-hair brush category.

There are quite a few senior artists who can't comprehend not working with natural-hair makeup brushes. They refuse to believe that modern, man-made materials will produce the same results. While I admire their allegiance to tradition, I offer them an invitation to visit the 21st century. Back in the day, animal hair was the only material available for brush making, so it became the standard. Thanks to strides in technology, today's synthetic filaments are specifically designed to enhance makeup brush functionality and performance. Natural-hair bristles are no longer the benchmark of quality, folks. It's time to put away the vinyl records, and get an iPod!


SPECIAL NOTE: If a company tries to tell you they have cruelty-free natural-hair brushes, they're liars. There was one major cosmetic company trying to pass off the ridiculous story that the natural hair used in their brushes was humanely shaved from animals. Seriously ... shaving squirrels? Get my boots, the bullshiz is getting deep!

Revolution-BX30

 

Technology has created synthetic filaments (nylon, taklon, polyester) that offer greater versatility and superior durability they can even be processed to look and feel like the finest natural hair. The BIG difference is, even with constant use (wet or dry) and frequent cleaning, they don't degrade or breakdown as easily as fragile natural hair. There were initial concerns surrounding the smooth exterior surface of synthetic fibers and their performance when using powder makeup products. You see, human and animal hair has a microscopic surface texture called the cuticle, which resembles fish scales. These scales grab and hold onto powder, and then release it when brushed against another surface. Many manufacturers have now developed synthetic fibers that mimic this texture, but it was DuPont laboratories that found a way to actually replicate the cuticle texture, and created Natrafil.  It's a patented polyester filament, with a textured surface that surpasses the pick-up and deposit performance of natural hair, while adding the superior durability of a synthetic. Nartrafil® is the fiber I chose when we created the [R]evolution Brush Collection.

 

duo-fiberAnother trend is blended brushes that mix synthetic and natural hair to augment the best qualities of each. Duo-Fiber has become a popular makeup brush category. These brushes have a signature bi-level construction (usually black and white), created by mixing multiple lengths of bristles (blended or totally synthetic). The purpose of these brushes is to simulate an airbrushed makeup application. In HD media format, this brush type is notorious for creating a streaky liquid/cream foundation application, so Im pretty sure I dont agree with that marketing hype. The brush design is totally viable for other application techniques; they just need to stop marketing it as an airbrush alternative.

 

GETTING INTO SHAPE

Brush head shapes are designed by manufacturers and cosmetic companies to facilitate standard make-up application, or the specific application needs of a new product. While some pretty amazing, specialty shapes have been introduced in the last 5 years, it's important to understand what the basic brush head shapes are:

  • Square or Angled: Bristles are precisely set in a narrow profile, with a sharp angle or flat surface along the top.
  • Chisel: Bristles are set in a narrow profile, with tips gently beveled into an assortment of rounded shapes, to be used for blending or contouring.
  • Pointed: Bristles are set in either a narrow or full round (barrel-shaped) profile. The brush tips are tapered to a precise point for detail work.
  • Round: Bristles are arranged in a full round (barrel-shaped) profile. The brush tips can can be either domed, angled, or flat topped.
  • Kabuki: Similar to the Round, but a larger in a more luxurious, tightly packed brush head. These brushes are available in domed, angled, or flat top styles.

 

You've got some pretty fantastic brushes to choose from here at Eternal


Let us help you find your perfect tools for beautiful results; the craftsmanship and quality that you're investing in. Because you deserve the best, beauties!

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